![]() ![]() ![]() He began reading everything he could find on farming and soil (sample: Darwin’s lesser-selling The Formation of Vegetable Mould Through the Action of Worms), visiting suppliers and asking endless questions. But Cox has an obsessive streak and a wandering, irrepressible curiosity. “So we were like: ‘How hard can it be? Let’s just do it ourselves.’”Ī rueful laugh: so far, so Clarkson’s Farm. “L’Enclume without a farm at that point wasn’t a thing: that’s where the story was and having access to that incredible produce,” says Cox, who grew up in urban north London and whose experience of growing was limited to herbs and microgreens in his back garden. But two months after Cox arrived in the Lake District, the couple who ran the restaurant’s two-acre farm decided to retire. Three years later, Simon Rogan recruited Cox to head up L’Enclume’s test kitchen. In 2008, aged 26, he won the Roux scholarship. In his 20s, Cox seemed to be on a comparatively straightforward path to becoming one of Britain’s most celebrated chefs: a Kerridge, a Smyth, a Bains. But, he admits cheerfully, he could name hundreds. You want to develop and evolve, make it as good as it can be Dan CoxĬombative pheasants are just one of the challenges Cox has faced since becoming a farmer. Crazy! Something’s gone wrong, something’s been removed from the system somewhere to allow that thing to flourish in the first place.”Ĭonventional farming is a travesty. You’re going about your business in your garden and the cocks are coming and attacking you. “They’re like colourful Chinese chickens that have been bred for stupidity and flying upwards,” he says. Cox began working on it in 2017 and it is his experiment to create a growing space in complete harmony with nature, but also productive and bountiful with some of the most delicious vegetables you will ever taste.Ĭox looks at the pheasant, which is picking at his seeds and shoots, and squints. ![]() The pheasant is, well, a pheasant, a male, with those long, jaunty tail feathers the Garden of Eden is the semi-serious name given by Dan Cox, a 39-year-old chef turned farmer, to a patch of land about half the size of a football pitch on his farm in south-east Cornwall. A pheasant struts around the Garden of Eden. ![]()
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